Didit Hediprasetyo
FW18/19 – PFW Haute Couture

As the locations of all of the runway shows for Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week are spread out through the city and never revealed to anyone other than invitees, some of the locations often turn out to be quite surprising. Pulling up to what seems to be a car repair garage, we must say that the location for the runway show of Indonesian designer Didit Hediprasetyo is truly the most unique and unexpected of all. The industrial surroundings of this common workplace form a positively unusual contrast with this highly glamorous event, with hosts welcoming us to the courtyard where we are served cold drinks and ice cream. On a summer day with temperatures climbing up to 32 degrees, we gratefully accept, although we notice that most people are refusing the ice cream as is typical for fashion events. The most common way to keep cool at Paris Fashion Week? We all know that’s waving your invite in your face like a fan, it doesn’t get more stylish than that!

After a short wait, the hosts and PR staff start seating everyone for the show, and we notice it is done in a very organized and calm way in comparison to some of the other shows. Actually, we must admit the whole experience from arrival to the event and to the end was very stress-free and serene, while most shows tend to be quite hectic. The seats are aligned on just one side of the runway, with the multi-level work stations and machinery opposite from us serving as a mechanical backdrop for the collection. Known for his effortless, yet refined clothing, Didit’s designs are meant to accentuate understated details, blending the East with the West while speaking to a young, cultured clientele. As the models stride by, his philosophy is quite evident. While his looks feel very young and fresh, it is especially the versatility of the pieces that draws our attention.

Take for example one of our favourites, a long black sheer dress with gold threading over a mini corset dress. Most certainly this creation can make you the belle of the ball, but it could also totally work at a festival or just as a casual outfit depending on the styling and accessories. Almost all of the looks seem like they can be turned from day to night outfits, which might be partially thanks to the smart collaboration with Dr. Martens footwear. Pairing the ensembles with the famously chunky boots from this brand really gives the collection an edge, complementing the cool robust jackets for men and women perfectly while balancing the feminine dresses out too. We love the way Didit uses asymmetry and leather inserts to toughen and modernize his items, and even though we are usually not a big fan of black combined with royal blue, he does make it work here. His references to the xennial MTV generation from which he took inspiration for this collection explain the scarce strands of blue hair (reminding us of that terrible hair mascara from the late 90’s-early 2000’s) which we otherwise felt would be too pubescent. Other than that, the collection as a whole projects a modern version of everything else that was cool during those seminal decades, featuring checkered prints, smooth leather, a sophisticated nonchalance and a dash of understated grunge. We are sold!

Intense ensembles worn by an intense ensemble