As the first show to kick off in the Gashouder on Friday evening we know we can expect quality designs from Tony Cohen, quality designs with a very clean aesthetic we should add! We also are familiar with his fondness for black and white, sometimes subtly adding a pop color or two. We were very impressed with his last collection “restrained & release” which showed a simple, minimalistic beauty while layering wide layers over tightly wrapped pieces. As the giant screen behind the catwalk lights up in an alluring green, a scene of swaying shoots of bamboo appears, inviting us to this verdurous summery atmosphere.Tony’s choice for rich and sleek materials is always spot on, as definitely goes for this collection. We see some long shirt dresses that appear to be flowing a lot more than the fabric usually does, as well as some short cut tailored blazers and his signature oversized suits.
Among the predominantly black and white outfits we spot a lovely 3 piece in brown, beige and cream as well as some short playful dresses in yellow and green. We love the way Tony plays with volume in his long dresses, flowing beautifully down the catwalk. Some of the long dresses have large ruffles and come in white and ivory, giving them a feminine and almost boho feel while maintaining the clean look as they are cut high above the cleavage. The silhouettes of these dresses are super loose, creating a floaty layered look. Some of the other long dresses that come in black boast a subtle femme fatale look by using leather wrap belts cinching the waist and shiny materials that almost look like patent leather from a distance. While we simply love all of these powerful black numbers, some of the yellow, green and white dresses do feel a bit matronly to us. But of course, Tony designs for every woman and versatility is key to a label that positions itself between ready-to-wear and couture. The yellow ton-sur-ton suit and the black and white checkered maxi shirt dress were our favorites, the latter even sporting cape sleeves which truly made it a vision to see walking down the catwalk. Tony Cohen never disappoints!